Care Sheets
On this page you will find care sheets for african fat tailed geckos, Leopard geckos and Crested geckos
African Fat Tailed Care Sheet
Native Range:
Most of the African Fat-Tailed Geckos in captivity originate from stock collected in Togo and Ghana in Western Africa. They inhabit dry areas of desert scrub-land and savannahs, preferring sandy areas which provide burrows for cover. They spend daytime underground, where conditions are cooler and moist, emerging at night when conditions are suitable to hunt. Numerous specimens are still being imported from these regions each year. As with all imports, they are generally heavily parasitized and badly stressed. It is recommended that keepers purchase healthy captive-bred specimens to avoid the headaches accompanying such imported specimens. This will also serve to reduced the collecting pressures needlessly put on wild populations.
Size:
african fat tails are approximately three to three and half inches long at birth, they are about eight inches in length as adults. Occasional some may exceed ten inches in length.
Handling:
African Fat-Tailed Geckos rarely bite as they are normally rather friendly and placid, although they may bite if they feel restrained. Handle gently, without pinching or squeezing. Remember that the tail may break off if handled roughly, and although it will regenerate, it will not grow back the samel. Until the aft is use to handling be very careful as frightened gecko may leap out of the keepers’ hand and take a fatal fall if held while standing, but plenty of handling on a frequent basis and your african fat tail will learn to trust you.
setup:
A 2ft viv is a good size for one African fat tail, and then 1ft per fat tail added
NEVER house more than one male together because they are territorial and will fight, and will end up seriously hurt or killed.
Unlike males, you can house more than one female in the same enclosure but keep a watch to start with to make sure there isnt any bullying between them, and make sure there is plenty of hides for them to get away from each other. Its NOT a good idea to keep a male with females as it can cause stress to the leos and over breeding.
Substrate:
Be carefull what substrate you choose you want to stay away from any type of sand or loose substrates as they can cause impaction which can be very harmful to the african fat tailed gecko . the best substrate to use is lino, kitchen towel, tile or reptile carpet.
Food:
Hatchlings will feed on small crickets and mealworms can be given after 2 weeks old. you can up the size of the crickets as the babies get bigger.
for adults provide larger crickets, wax-worms, and mealworms. Dust food with a calcium powder about twice a week and provide a bowl of calcium in the viv at all times.
when females are producing eggs this uses huge amounts of calcium so they will need extra calcium.
Humidity & Water:
Provide clean water in a shallow dish, about the same height as the gecko. While care is outwardly similar to Leopard Geckos, humidity should be kept somewhat higher, or shedding problems and dehydration can result. provide a wet hide with some damp moss in for your african fat tailed gecko as this will help it to shed more easily.
Heating & Lighting:
Provide a thermal gradient by placing a heat mat under one end of the cage. This should allow the gecko to choose from higher temperatures (about 90F) at the warm end, and cooler temperatures (about 75F) at the cooler end. Provide suitable hiding areas at both warm and cool areas, so the african fat tailed gecko can feel secure at any temperature. Temperatures below 75F should be avoided. No lighting is required for these nocturnal animals.
Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
Native range:
The Leopard Gecko is by far the most popular pet lizard available. With its small, hardy size, brilliant colorations, and easy care, the Leopard Gecko as become the leader in pet lizards. Leopard Geckos come from the eastern part of The Middle East. They live in dry desert regions which is mainly rocks and grasses not sand, and make their home underneath rocks. Active at dusk, these lizards live in small groups of only one male. They are one of the few geckos that lack the ability to climb straight up glass like most. These animals are more docile than most geckos, but will lose their tail if threatened.
setup:
A 2ft viv is perfect size for 1 leopard gecko and then its a foot per extra leopard gecko added. Leopards geckos aren't very active during the day, and this space will be plenty.
A wet hide should be provided with moist bedding to help shedding and a couple of hides one in the warm end and one in the cold end, add additional hides for more leos. Substrate should be kitchen towel, tiles, lino or reptile carpet this is safer for the gecko as loose substrate can cause impaction which is very dangerous to the gecko.
Heating
Heating is necessary for these animals since they rely on the outside to keep their body warm. you only need to heat one end of the setup so that they have a cooler end too. The ideal temperature is 86 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. The ambient air temperature of the room they are housed in should be above 73 degrees.
Lighting
Leopard Geckos are nocturnal animals, so they don’t like bright light. It has also been proven that these animals need very little to no UV rays due to their nightly nature..
Feeding
Leopard geckos eat insects, Baby and juveniles should be fed everyday until about eight months old. However most adults will prefer to eat every other day.
They eat crickets, mealworms, locusts, roches and the occasional wax worm but these should only be given as a treat and not on a regular basis as they can get addicted to them. Food should never be larger than the gecko’s head. Powder calcium should be on offer as well as being dusted on the food.
A bowl of water should also be on offer but make sure the bowls aren't too high.
Housing males and females
males and females should really be kept seperatly, you can keep other females together but if you house more than one male together they will fight to the death.
Crested Gecko Care Sheet
set up
Crested Geckos are from cooler climates so a glass terrarium is ideal. Glass allows heat to escape easily so your pet will not over heat. They are love to climb so they like to have a high enclosure rather than a wide one. For a large adult or a group of youngsters a 45x 45x 60cm (18"x 18" x 24") is acceptable.
subsatrate and decor
eco earth is a good substarte to use for Crested Geckos. This absorbs water that is sprayed into the terrarium without turning mouldy. Crested Geckos are nocturnal and like places to hide during the day. wooden branches and artificial plants are good to use for them to hide behind and feel safe.
Heating
Crested Geckos prefer cooler temperatures. During the day they like to be kept at around 24oC (75oF). This can sometimes be achieved by no additional heating at all, or you can use a small heat mat on the back or side of the terrarium is enough to keep your crestie warm enough. At night the temperature can be allowed to drop as low as 13oC (55oF).
food and water
Crested Geckos eat live food and vegetation Their diet is high in small soft fruit (not citrus fruits), along with whatever insects that happen within striking distance. fresh soft fruits like Peach,mango and Apricot, are loved by Crested Geckos, as well as crickets and as a treat small locusts and wax worms. A special crested gecko diet food is now also available, mix this with water and pour into their bowl
Drinking water should always be made available to the Crested Gecko from a water bowl. Crested Geckos also lick the morning dew from rocks and plants for hydration, it is therefore important to mist the vivarium once daily using a water spray or sometimes twice a day in the summer if looking a bit dry
Handling
Crested Geckos are a good lizard for handling. They natural get around by jumping from branch to branch and may even jump on to your shoulder when handling. Never grab or pick up a Crested Gecko by it's tail as they will shed the tail as a defence mechanism. It will not grow back.
cleaning
Regular spot cleaning of the terrarium should be done to keep it clean for you and the animal. Dead live foods and the cresties faeces should be removed when noticed. Change the substrate once a month or as required.
